We got going promptly this morning as Rowan has been studying the weather, and for a good weather window to sail to Solomon’s we should check out today and leave tomorrow morning. Otherwise we risk big winds or non at all and will have to motor. It was sad to leave our lovely anchorage, it has been so charming and unspoilt, living up to the reputation that Vanuatuans are the happiest nation on earth.
As we sailed slowly up the island Rowan’s eyes began to hurt, he came inside, as we had read about the acid rain here from the volcano, stinging your eyes. It is terrible for the stainless steel on the boats, so just as well we are leaving. We had a good sail over about 25 miles, as we came out the shadow of the island we hit some big waves and quite a bit of wind, but all very manageable. It was good to arrive midday in good light to wiggle our way through the little islands and reefs. It was very rainy and cloudy, just as well to wash off all the acid rain from Gaua island. The anchorage was good solid mud, we held well thankfully, as it is known to be very uncomfortable as it has a big swell. We rushed into Sola, the town, hoping we could check out and then move across the bay to a more sheltered spot.
Not the easiest shoreline to dock the dinghy on, but with directions from some of the local banana boats, water taxis, we managed to get in without bashing anything. The supply ship was in, docking right up onto the beach. They were rolling loads of barrels of diesel onto land, rolling them across the main road to under a big tree which turned out to be the petrol station operating from a container. There is no ferry here and the supply ship comes irregularly, what an existence. It was a typical little port town full of government buildings. We finally found the immigration office, having been told the officer was attending a welcome ceremony for the Police Commissioner who was visiting from Port Vila (by plane). Blissfully the office was air conditioned and we were able to sign in with the secretary, escaping a massive downpour. This is their first rain of the season and it was bucketing down. Lots of form filling and photocopying, the officer turned up who was charming and efficient, our passports were stamped, all we had left to do was exit from customs.
Customs was back down the road in another direction, this office obviously had a keen gardener with beautiful plants being well tended. Again very polite and efficient, we had our port payment document, now he had to get the office in Luganville to give us our clearance papers. With the downpour comms had failed, so he suggested we come back in an hour. We went down the road to find a shop and on the way to my huge delight I found a craft market sign, the building looked empty but as I got closer I spotted the door was open, just the market tables were empty. It is a local handicraft initiative, with mainly basket wear which they are well known for. We had loads of cash to get rid of and a good way to support the local economy, so I had great fun doing some Christmas shopping! Rowan went to the shop and stocked up on a few more presents for locals, packets of biscuits we can share with kids, more tinned meat(ugh!), matches and the lady said that soap was a good luxury present. Rowan was loaded with a big box, I had to repurpose my rain poncho into a big bag to stop my purchases getting wet in the rain. It was a successful shop, a good way to while away the time.
Back at Customs, no sign of our document, they were so apologetic as we waited and waited. I went to check on JeldiJeldi, luckily we had got the wheels down and taken her a long way up the beach, she was fine. Eventually with another frantic phone call the document came through at 4:50pm, just before closing. We rushed back to PolePole, but it was too late to move. We were going to have a rocky night, plus a noisy one, as one of the Copra boats near us had their loud generator on all night. Luckily down below in our cabin with the fans on we couldn’t hear them. Tomorrow we leave.
Wiggling our way into Sola
We had been on the bottom left hand side of Gaua Island, our blue dot just rounding the corner into Sola
Rain and grey clouds
The first and only Frigate bird we have seen
Passing some lovely white beaches in pockets of sunshine, this is to show the kids Rowan is being so responsible….wearing his life jacket, even if it is so twisted it most probably would not pop open!
Reefs and beaches to avoid
Lovely looking villages on the islands
This hat shape island is becoming a familiar shape, all volcanic we assume
The supply ship docked on the beach, a Copra boat which looked like it was sinking! No other yachts checking out
The Petrol/diesel station, the barrels just stay under the tree. No problem with crime here!
The jetty has seen better days, not too surprising with the swell in here. Noisy Copra boat near us came in after us
My handicraft loot!
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