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Wednesday 12 November – arriving in another limestone island wonderland

We had to leave early, that is before 7am, as the tide was up high, so we could get JeldiJeldi over the coral to get our ropes off the rocks. Thankfully it was very calm and the whole operation worked like a dream. Rowan was sorting out the stern lines and my job was to keep the boat from drifting before he got back.. Then our 80ms of chain and anchor came up like a dream, we were soon off and out the bay. It was about 15 miles to our next destination, heading west, motoring gently north of the continuous string of islands. Grey skies made the phots very flat and did not do the scenery justice. Absolutely no wind, so no point in getting the sails up.

We finally got to the channel through to our anchorage. It was an extraordinary landscape with not a soul about. We followed a route through deep water until we did a sharp left and then we were in our magical anchorage. As there are no boats about and we have plenty of swing room, we anchored in a depth of 24ms and did not need to put out any stern lines. We have towering cliffs on one side of us with an enormous cave high up. We have islands all the way around us so we are really well protected. What a relief to be so comfortably settled. It is boiling hot, so we spent the early afternoon just recovering under the awning getting what little breeze there was.

Late afternoon just as it clouded over and threatened rain we headed out in JeldiJeldi to explore the area. We had passed a long jetty and discovered it led to a wooden staircase that went to the top of the rocky island overlooking our anchorage. It was a hot sweaty climb up, well worth the effort for the amazing views. Sadly the staircase was in pretty bad condition with loads of broken and wobbly steps to keep us on our toes. It must have been a great effort to put the wooden stairway and walkway up. Lovely orchids on the way up growing out the rocks. At the bottom we met a group of 6 kayakers, 3 guests from Europe and 3 guides, kayaking around Misool, they have had some camping nights, and were looking forward to their Homestay tonight. There was a local couple sitting on the jetty, the one guide from the kayak group could speak good English, he told us we needed to pay the local guy. He explained that the government has pulled payment for the upkeep of the tourist sites, so it is up to the village and owners to maintain it. It certainly feels like tough times with lots of derelict looking Homestays about. .

We had a lovely evening back on PolePole, the insect noise is unbelievable, there was a cacophony of squawking Hornbills all returning to their roost for the night, the noise from their flapping wings is incredibly loud. Rowan celebrated by having his favourite rack of lamb chops on the BBQ. They were just cooked when the gas ran out for the BBQ. Another chore to do in Sorong. Our food supplies are really low, no eggs, very little fresh food, – we have half an onion, 3 carrots a third of a red cabbage, a handful of new potatoes, a couple of bananas and 2 green Pawpaw and that is it!. We have plenty of store cupboard goodies and tins to eat. Breakfast is now beans on toast. At least I have plenty of flour to continue making bread, and we have plenty of milke for tea and coffee. We will restock in Sorong in 10 days.

Islands all the way along to our destination

The fjord like passage down to our anchorage with islands all around us

Eroded rocks everywhere

Very unusual rock formations

Such a mixture of jungle and rock

Quite tricky to navigate through the gaps, relying on satellite maps and the charts

Into our anchorage

I love the jagged skyline of the rocks

Our view as we relax up front, the peak on the right is the one we climbed up

Our route through the coral and islands to our anchorage

Off to climb the wooden staircase

View of PolePole on the way up

View from the top

View the other way, with an orchid growing out the rock in front o us

More impressive views

The wooden walkway under a rock overhang that looks a bit like a dinosaur head

PolePole in the emerald green anchorage

Twilight, full of bird noises going home to roost


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