Commodore
March 23, 2021

Stunning sail to Cumberland Bay

Leaving Bequia in the sun, the wind howled through between Bequia and St Vincent, Rowan was very chuffed to be doing 10 knots of speed, in 26 knots of wind. Always choppy with big waves between the islands.

The wind died as soon as we got into the lee of St Vincent, so we hugged the coast with the motor on. The scenery was stunning, so much of the island seems so unspoilt with gorgeous remote beaches.

Big clouds building up

We passed Wallilabou Bay (above), Pirates of the Caribbean setting, which we visited with Phoebe in a taxi. The next bay along was Rodney Bay, we got there a lot earlier than thought, around 11am. It took a while getting sorted on our anchor, we had read in Doyle’s that we need to tie stern ropes to shore. It is obviously a bit muddy to rely on the anchor holding, Kenny a boat man greeted us and we had a fairly tense time tying up to a coconut tree, but we got there in the end. Following Doyle’s advice we were tied near the Mojito Restaurant (which he gave rave reviews for), so we booked dinner. Doyle is correct saying this place is enchanting and unspoiled by tourism. When I checked the restaurant out through the binocs it looked pretty abandoned and we wondered what we had let ourselves into. It is a magical bay with only a few other boats.

The balcony of Mojito Restaurant

We needed some exercise so we took JeldiJeldi to a dock, belonging to a bar at the other end of the bay. The French owner was departing and when we said we wanted to go for a walk and come back for a beer, he said no problem, just help yourself and leave the money under the counter. He told us how to get to the river from his, which was a nice little walk through the bush. We were joined by a Frenchman from a sail boat who has 4 dogs for company and has been here since Covid started. Poor chap was walking his original beloved dog when it got run over in the village. He was devastated, the locals found a replacement for him, which he took on, little did he know she was pregnant and now he has 3 pups too. The pups are all so cute, he was taking them for a walk to the river and then down the river to tire them out. They were all whimpering and crying trying to catch up with him as they slipped their way over the rocks in the river. He is devoted to them, we spent a while helping him as the pups had got covered in burs which they did not like.

Crossing the river we found a whole lot of little model boats all tied up, obviously belonging to the kids in the village. Beautifully made from coconut husks and bits and bobs, one looked like a catamaran towing some boats and another had sails up. I wish we had seen the kids sailing them.

The sailing pool for the model boats before the rapids start.

French pied piper…..his new dog and pups squealing trying to keep up with him

The model sailing boats we found tied up in the river

We got back onto the main road and decided to walk to the top of the hill to the next village, Coull’s Hill, to have a good view of the bay. We passed some lovely old buildings.

Cumberland bay

Pole Pole all tied up.

Someone we met on the way up.

Getting higher!

The view of the rain forest in land is spectacular.

Finally at the top PolePole on the far right

Some interesting graffiti…..opposite Jam Corner Bar!

The church is always at the top. The medical clinic is next door and we met two nurses waiting to get a taxi home. They asked if we would like to be vaccinated, they would be doing free jabs on Sunday………presumably trying to persuade a few church goers!

More good boat names!

Looking across the bay to PolePole.

Photo of the other side of Cumberland bay to us, where we parked JeldiJeldi. We returned to the bar and had our cold beer, the poor French dog owner was sitting there so we got him a beer too, which he thoroughly enjoyed with an enormous big joint! He was exhausted, he had just put all his babies (dog and pups) to bed, back on the boat. This was his time to relax! He told us how he was so sad to lose his dog and that he had buried her in the woods near the river, the locals had been so kind to him. Wonder if he will ever leave, he has one good home for a puppy and he wants to keep one, but needs a home for the third one. He won’t give it to anyone who will tie it up, which is what happens to the majority of them.

Our corner.

Going ashore for dinner we met these fishermen in their rowing boat, just taking off in the setting sun.

We needn’t have worried, the balcony was transformed, and Rowan was perfectly coordinated with the table flowers! We were the only guests, and served by a lovely young woman called Venetia, who cooked us the most delicious chicken supper. But even better were the mojito’s she made for us, with their special mint and limes. Doyle was right! Venetia and another lady were selling jewellery they had made themselves. Times are so tough for these people living so remotely, I was very happy to buy a few things from both of them.