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Monday 20 October – enjoying this enormous bay to ourselves

We had a lot of fisherman with their bright orange lights gliding silently around the river and getting quite close to the boat last night, I found it a little unnerving in the pitch dark, but it turned out to be fine and a very peaceful night. We got a few chores done and then decided to head into the village, Nathan the guy in the boat yesterday was sending Rowan messages every half hour, which were really beginning to annoy Rowan. It was a very smart Christian village, most of the houses on the water front, with endless boats tied up to the many jetties along the water front. We had got so used to the Islands we have been travelling through all speaking reasonable English, it is rather a shock to find that we can’t communicate very well now at all, most here seem to have no English at all. We had a good walk the length of the village and bumped into Nathan half way. We confirmed we would like to go on a river tour with him tomorrow at 10am which he was dead chuffed about.

We got back into JeldiJeldi and decided to go and explore towards the big expanse of water, which I will call a lake from here on, that the river runs into. I am not sure if you can call this a river it is more like a big inland bay. We came to a point where we could take a little side river or go straight to the big lake, it looked like it might rain, so we took the left fork as we thought the lake would get choppy. It was a lovely cruise along the river, passing a Muslim village with a mosque, so different to the other village. It felt like it was getting more remote, and certainly we did not see a single boat, the other fork has quite a bit of boat traffic on it as there are 8 villages on the big lake. We went as far as we could to see the entrance to the lake and then turned around as the sky got darker. We came around the corner and saw Pole Pole just as the rain arrived, it was pretty good timing.

It was another relaxing evening listening to all the bird calls.

Such a stunning anchorage all to ourselves, in fact there seem to be very few yachts in Raja Amat at the moment

The current of the water as it roars in and out with the tides, creating flat eddies where salt water and fresh water meet

Going into the village with all their many long boats

The rickety temporary bridge, the water front bridge looked like it had been washed away

Some very smart well tended homes

The waterfront main street

Very sad to come across this majestic creature, tied to his perch, an Osprey we think

Another smart house

Spotted this lone goose who looked pretty incongruous sitting there under the bench

Our scenic river route

The water swirls around and changes in colour along the way

A limestone island covered in untouched jungle

We can just make out the big lake beyond so opt to take the left hand fork

Entrance to the lake

The Muslim village

The longer, narrower route to the lake

We turn the corner and it is like a mill pond

As we see the other entrance to the lake, the weather arrives so we turn around and skedaddle home to PolePole

Cloud settling on the hill tops

Relieved to see PolePole safe and sound, anchor works hard in these currents

Sunset calm

All the fishermen, silently gliding about with their orange lights

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