We had one last snorkel, the kids are really getting the hang of it, just the choppy waves filling their snorkels every now and then. It was lovely and clear water so the visibility was great.
We headed round the headland to Tyrell Bay where Jonny and family get the ferry back to Grenada tomorrow morning. We anchored in the blistering heat, no breeze to cool us, so we headed to land as soon as we could. We caught a bus over to Paradise beach bar where we left the Crickmores to have lunch and a swim while we went in search of our Antigen test for getting into Antigua.
We stayed on the bus which took us to Hillsborough, it was heaving with people, obviously the remnants of the carnival. The streets were fluttering with flags and enormous big boom boxes on the street, no wonder we could hear the music all the way at Sandy Island. Interestingly, after a little research I found out more about the carnival also known as Kayak-Mas, it is a pre-Lenten carnival that is the last chance to have fun and give in to all your temptations, before the onset of Lent! ‘On Shrove Tuesday they host one of the most unlikely parades. Participants in this show, dress in costumes from Shakespeare’s era and recite lines from Shakespeare’s work. When one of them makes a mistake, they get hit over the head with a stick. The participants battle each other over who can remember the most lines. Whoever ends up being the winner becomes the King of Carnival for that year. This tradition dates back to colonial times, when slaves were forced to perform for their owners, and were hit when they recited an error. This tradition showcases the cruelties of the past. Today no one gets hurt as the participants wear padding under headwear to stay safe.’ (such a PC extract!).

Flag decorated Main street of Hillsborough
The big boom box in the street and music blaring
Once we were dropped off at the bus terminal, we discovered we had to get the top of the hill about two miles away, the hospital was built in 1907 in isolation, as it was an infectious and contagious disease hospital. We finally found the number 11 mini bus, run by two guys with the biggest hair dos, that took us there, it was jammed pack, we were the only ones dropped off there. Slightly disheartened as he said he would be back on the route in about an hours time. It was a magnificent view from the top. It was extremely efficient with a small gazebo outside with a guy doing the tests. We loved it as he asked us if we had done a test before, when we said yes, he let us swab our own nostrils, so much more pleasant than getting our brains scraped! Then the wait started as it had to be signed off by a doctor. Only one other person getting tested, a local who lives most of the year in New York and is back for the carnival – what a contrasting life he leads. As the doc finally came out to us the mini bus arrived, so an hour later, she asked us to check the details before she stamped it. Of course I spotted a mistake which delayed proceedings, but luckily everything here is island time and the bus was happy to wait for us. Finally sorted we hopped in only to find we were not going straight back to town, this was the start of the route all around the island. It took another hour to get to town, but it was a wonderful insight to the locals lives, as people got on and off, the bus appeared to go miles down a dead end to drop people off. They all seemed to know each other as nobody said where they were going when they boarded. Lots of chat along the way, absolutely delightful. We finally got back to Hillsborough where I had to buy the ferry tickets for the Crickmores departure at 6am tomorrow. The only place on the island where they can be purchased, we were warned the ferries might be crowded as the carnival finishes, so we wanted tickets in advance. Town brought back memories of my ear infection last year, I went to the little medical centre to get it looked at. Finally we got a bus back to Tyrell Bay via a different road over the hills. What an adventure! It was nearly 5pm by the time we met up with the Crickmores there, who had a very relaxing time at the beach.

Our Bus team’s amazing hair dos


View across Hillsborough with the obligatory canons at any look out point

The aquamarine waters of Sandy Island

Deserted views on our bus route
Rowan and I fetched the dinghy from the marina dock and brought it to the beach outside the restaurant where we were having supper. It chose that moment to pour down with rain for 5 minutes, drenching us. We left the dinghy out in the water at anchor, it really didn’t matter us getting wet as we were so wet anyway. The restaurant was run by an elderly english couple, specialising in Indian curries. It turned out to be very good indeed, freshly cooked, my lamb Korma was delicious. We ate early as we needed to be up before 5am to get the Crickmores to the ferry on time.

Curry supper

Anchor lights of Tyrell Bay. Arthur watching Rowan swim out to get the dinghy, very tame heron on the left
Discover more from sailingpolepole.com
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.


