Commodore
January 1, 2025

Thursday 2 January – walk to Stony Batter WW2 tunnels

Rain was predicted on and off all day and there was nowhere easy to walk at Onetangi, so we decided to move around to the next big bay on Waiheke island, hoping to get away from the crowd of boats. We were so relieved the motor launch that parked so close to us, did not disturb us during the night. By the time we had toasted the new year in with the kids (midday yesterday) and had a bottle of wine with supper I did not want to have to move the boat in big winds!

We were pleased to anchor among far fewer boats in Hooks Bay. In the afternoon we slogged up the hill on a trail to the Stony Batter WWII Coastal Defence Fortress. We arrived just before 4pm at the museum and the young lad running it offered us a free abbreviated tour of the tunnels as it was close to closing and we had no money on us. He was a bit of a character and not your usual historical tour guide. He had lots to tell us as we walked along the tunnels with the torches he had given us. This remote spot was chosen to protect the British radar stations and the American fleet (45000 US troops at one stage), as well as to protect Auckland. The United States covered the bill for construction and the guns were provided by the UK.

The tunnels and underground chambers were quarried by hand using shovels, picks and wheelbarrows. Constructed in complete secrecy, the aggregate from the surrounding rocks was turned into the cement used to form the walls and ceilings, with no reinforcing steel due to shortages, which is why it is called Stony Batter. The resulting 1.2 kms of tunnels connected three gunnery turrets. The construction was completed in 1944. Two of the guns were installed – one in ’44 and one in ‘48, three years after the war ended. The third gun was cancelled before it was shipped. Other than for testing and training purposes, the guns were never fired and were dismantled and sold for scrap in 1961. After 60 years of neglect it has been restored, the cement has has not deteriorated at all, the passages and chambers are all in perfect condition, our guide proudly told us they have been officially declared earthquake safe! It now has art exhibitions, a concert chamber and a performance space. I have to say I found it a bit weird…….. a zen room with burning candles. All terrifyingly dark when the guide switched all the lights off. As the largest coastal defence fortress ever constructed in NZ and that it was constructed in complete secrecy is really quite amazing.

We were pleased to get back to JeldiJeldi around 6pm and find her still safely bobbing around on her little anchor. Always a little worrying leaving her on anchor in these crazy winds.