Finally heading to the Tobago Cays

An early start for us, our laundry was picked up at 7am, and Rowan’s first call was booked at 7:30am (he still has various bits of business he is involved with). Then it was into town to collect our DHL parcels from the shipping agent, and do a bit of provisioning. I went back to the old boy who had his weed stolen last time we were shopping, as his fruit was very good. What a character, he kept telling himself to concentrate which was a bit disconcerting, but I managed to leave with an enormous pile of fruit and veg for $190 EC and realised when I got home it was £50! At least it is all great quality, with enormous packs of granadillas (passion fruit), paw paw, amazing mangoes and the most delicious local grapefruits. We have been having sensational fruit salads, with a squeeze of rough lime, which is the cherry on the cake. Also got local beans, carrots, sweet potatoes, turmeric and ginger, so I’m not complaining too much!

Old house in Bequia

Laundry was delivered back to the boat at midday and we were off, heading to the Cays, which Rowan has been dying to get to. It was a great sail down with good winds and we were doing a great speed so easily going to be there in daylight which is always my concern, especially here as there are reefs and coral heads everywhere. The weather has been quite blowy with storms off the coast, so I rather put a damper on sailing with the Gennaker sail. But I had noticed it was unravelling a bit so as we got close to the point where we were going to have to motor Rowan decided we should re-furl the big sail. I find it quite big and intimidating and so thankfully I suggested we put the jib away before tackling it. I had just turned the boat into the wind and Rowan let it go the next minute it was out but the rope for the furler had come adrift and now we had to get this big beast down ourselves. Rowan had tried to hold on and the next minute I saw him lifted and struggling to stay on board, I was absolutely terrified watching, it felt like slow motion watching him go so close to the edge of the trampoline, thankfully he didn’t hurt himself, I suddenly realised that the entire long rope attaching the sail to the cockpit winch was in the water and the engines were on and I envisioned the rope getting stuck around the propeller, which added to my panic. The force of the sail as it came onto the trampoline was terrifying, nearly flattened both of us a couple of times as it engulfed us. Not sure how but the rope got free and the Gennaker came crashing into the sea. Actually with engines in neutral and no flapping sail and ropes, peace descended and we managed to manhandle the soaking sail into the front locker.

It was a dramatic entrance to the Cays! There was only one other boat, which is unheard of here, this is supposedly the jewel of the Caribbean and usually packed with boats. Both Covid and the wind have kept everyone away. Chris Doyle who writes the guide book for the Caribbean, which is every cruiser’s bible, is in the Grenadines at the moment and has mentioned on social media that it is the emptiest he has seen it in 40 years. Very tough on the local economies that depend on tourism. A local boat came out to greet us and we decided to take a mooring buoy between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau islands to be protected from the wind. Turned out they are just offering their services and a lobster grilled lunch on the island, the Marine park owns the buoys. So we agreed to have lunch but have opted for fish, we’ve gone off lobster after Phoebe told us they mate for life!

Petit Bateau

We were very glad of our sundowners and a relax after our busy day. It was a great sunset to welcome us to the Cays, only slightly blighted by a boat with a very loud American arriving and trying to anchor between us and the only other boat, he ended up crowding us in. The other boat chased him away as he got way too close to them, and peace resumed.