We had to get to the bank to get some PNG cash, so we have something when we arrive. We also had to get some more local cash, it was a good excuse to get a coffee at the cafe and say goodbye to Clif and Melody. I think they were really excited to be going home, but also a little anxious about leaving the boat in the hands of a relative stranger.
By midday we were on our way crossing over 28 miles to get to our anchorage in Roderick Bay, in a chain of islands. We had good winds in the mid teens and with it in the right direction, we had a very good speedy crossing. A narrow entrance into the big wide bay, it is actually just a big gap between two islands. We headed to the main anchorage as we read it had 3 mooring balls, we knew Profasea and Alma Feroz were on balls, and hoped to pick up the third ball. The guys from Alma Feroz came out to help us and told us the third mooring has sunk, so not available. The son of the chief of the anchorage tried to direct us to an area to anchor, but we found it was full of bommies or very deep. We frightened ourselves by suddenly getting into very shallow water. The mooring balls are in 30m of water, the bay is very deep with steep sloping coral drop offs to the land. We decided to go across to Simon’s Reserve, where he has a mooring ball. It was across the bay which took us about 15 minutes, and thankfully some kids were out to help us onto the ball. The only problem was that they got the rope tied up in a knot and under their canoe, with 4 kids in the canoe I was terrified they might tipple over. Finally Simon arrived and we got untangled and secured ourselves on the ball. We invited Simon on board and said the kids had to wait on the sugar scoop. Simon is stick thin and wheezing like a steam train. Rowan was able to give him all his old asthma inhalers because he no longer suffers after his successful throat op. Simon was really chuffed, he speaks incredibly good English, even though he assures us he never completed his education. He has Ventolin inhalers that the government medical system gives him, but he has become allergic to it, so doesn’t like it much. Rowan was able to give him a preventative inhaler and a new powder inhaler. My last medical check up at our surgery just before I left, also replaced my Ventolin prescription for a powder inhaler, it seems like the NHS is abandoning Ventolin. I just hope Simon does take it all carefully, he does not look very healthy and has liver and kidney problems. But he is doing a wonderful job protecting the coral. I think I mentioned that the locals here are addicted to Bettle Nut, they chew it with lime which causes a chemical reaction and the nut goes red. It looks too ghastly as it stains their mouth red which is sinister. Anyhow the lime is not from the citrus fruit, it is coral that is burnt and then crushed into powdered lime. This has decimated the coral, and Simon is trying to regrow the coral and protect it. We gave him a bundle of goodies including some reading glasses which was all well received. He then apologised for begging but wondered if we had any tea and milk to spare! He also asked me if we had anything for his nephew’s bad cut on his knee. I washed the wound and put some trusty mecurachrome on it. We fed the kids on some chocolate biscuits while they waited for Simon. He said he could organise some traditional singing for us tomorrow. A very sweet dignified gentleman, he really is not strong enough to paddle his own boat and has a kid paddling him around.
It is a lovely spot here with some lovely bush and loads of bird noises. Its a tiny spot with coral on our one side and a reef running out on the other side. Not a lot of spare room here.
Leaving Honiara, the beach in front looks a lot better from afar
Lella on the left, and the other yacht is Craig and Aaron’s, you can see the concrete dolas that they have tied their stern lines onto. Not that appealing
Entering Roderick Bay
Interesting cliffs as we entered
Stunning scenery
Always plumes of smoke where they are clearing land
Loads of fishermen out in their canoes, a lot of them congregating, we wondered if they had nets out, but we don’t think so, maybe they are just chin wagging!
The next bay along has the wreck from a cruise liner that crashed into an unchartered reef on the other entrance to the bay, in 2000. Nobody was killed, the captain managed to beach the liner. By the time Australian salvagers arrived the boat had been totally ransacked, nothing was left, even windows out. The salvagers tried to get to the wreck but were shot at by locals so they went home with nothing. It was while they were having a civil war. Sadly, the locals would like the wreck removed now but it seems like the owners have totally abandoned it
Looking back at the entrance to the bay, plenty of dark clouds about
Little island with a gorgeous beach and another abandoned resort, this one looks a lot more sophisticated
Dramatic clouds bubbling over the horizon
The map locating us and sign for the the Liner wreck
Simon’s marine reserve
Sunset catching the clouds
Discover more from sailingpolepole.com
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
