Last night we were meant to have our biggest gusts, thankfully we are very well sheltered and our mooring ball held fast. It was a slow morning sorting out admin and Rowan getting a bit of work out the way.
On the way to the dinghy dock we passed an English woman’s boat called Nereida, her name is Jeanne Socrates. Paul and LIz (from Samoa) said they had befriended her in the Society islands, she is 81 and is sailing solo around the world again. I opened an OCC email (Overseas Cruising Club) this morning and had seen that Jeanne Socrates is one of 6 sailors getting their names on an honours board of Cape Horners along with the likes of Ellen Mc Arthur. What a woman! Paul and Liz said she was really getting a bit beyond it, Paul said he had to do a lot of fixes for her and needed help a couple of times. Nevertheless pretty impressive for 81.
Jean Socrates’s boat moored a few boats away from us
In the midday heat, which was not too hot at all, we decided to go into town and do a walk up to the top of a hill with great views overlooking the various islands and a view back to the anchorage where we could see PolePole gliding around. It was quite a steep climb the last section up some very high steps, it was just as well it was a cool cloudy day. It was fun walking through the town to get there, passing schools with children screaming around on their lunch break eating vast quantities of junk food, poor things have no chance of being slim. The little boys were playing rugby on a steepish bank, definitely the main sport here, but also all looking rather chubby than athletic. Loads of dogs barking at us along the way. It does not feel nearly as prosperous as Samoa and certainly does not have the civic pride of well tended gardens and planted verges. There seems to be a very large Chinese presence, the main hotels and all the shops seem to be Chinese.
View from the top
Looking back at PolePole and the islands beyond
Looking out the other direction
We decided to stop in at the Tropicana cafe as the owner does a cruisers network call on the vhf, and was helpful giving us info when we arrived at customs. It was a big disappointment food wise and the service was poor. I think we will be back at the Mango cafe on the waterfront for any future meals. In fact as we had parked the dinghy at the Mango Cafe dinghy dock, we felt compelled to go and buy a delicious big nutty chocolate brownie!
Looking at the hill from PolePole where we walked to
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