Commodore
April 1, 2023

Saturday 1 April – a mega walk to the base of Poumaka

We met Ed and Jackson just after 7am at the little harbour. His immediate concern was that Megan was wearing flip flops, it didn’t matter how much we said it is the only shoes she wears, even out in the bush in Africa, he still dashed home and got a pair of trainers for her just in case. He was wearing serious hiking boots and the rest of us had trainers on. We knew it was going to be quite a hike but did not know if it was 3 hours round trip or 3 hours there! We set off at 7:30am and got back at 4:30pm! Thankfully we all had a pecan heavy bowl of granola before leaving.

I’m going to let the photos explain this amazing walk, a 600m climb to the rock face of Poumaka peak. Thank goodness for our guide Jackson as the path was not always clear, we did some very steep sections through bracken, that I had to cling onto to balance myself. The final 10m we had to climb and swing up a rope with toe holds in it. Jackson was very cute asking my age, and said no Polynesian woman over 40 would do the walk, and that I must have a very strong heart, which was great encouragement. He made me walk behind him on the way up clearing fallen Yucca leaves that have razor sharp edges. He was completely bemused by Megan who managed no problem in her flip flops, and insisted she didn’t need his trainers. I have to say that it was an impressive achievement, especially the descent. It was breathtaking scenery along the way, the vegetation changing at every elevation. Sadly the lower areas around town have been taken over by acacia trees introduce by the Chinese to feed the goats. What a nightmare as it has spread uncontrollably and is heading into and taking over the forest areas. Loads of coffee plants along the way, it used to be cultivated many decades ago but no longer. The first part of the walk after leaving the village was on a dirt road up to the reservoir that supplies the village with water, and then the climb started on a narrow path. Thankfully a lot of it was in forest shade and there was quite a bit of cloud cover. We were very surprised to find a family camping off the path after hiking for about an hour. They had a make shift sort of tent accommodation, Jackson said they have come to claim land. That is why it is advised to go with a guide so you don’t trespass or get in the way of the people shooting the wild goats!

The village harbour where we left JeldiJeldi, quite a swell which we knew about, so we had taken our bigger anchor to put out stern, to keep her from bashing into the harbour wall.

Here is a map of the area and the rock peaks/spires whatever one wants to call these extraordinary volcanic formations. We took the red path up the right hand valley behind the two peaks in front of Poumaka, then crossed in front of Poumaka and came down the red path in the central valley.

Rowan setting off at a great pace.

Entering the forest and leaving behind the acacia

We got to the village reservoir, this pool has a load of local Polynesian folklore. Ed did very well at translating the stories for us but often they got too complicated.

The dam wall and the pipes heading to the village

A small path from here on up

Poumaka the far peak

Megan having no problem walking through the ferns in flip flops

The peak gets closer

The forest changed as we got higher, covered in old man’s beard, orchids and tree ferns

Looking back down to PolePole

Getting closer, loads of Old Man’s Beard, black streak from water on the rock

We finally made it to the rock face of Poumaka, at 600m, the top of the rock peak is over 900m

Jackson clearing the bush so we could see PolePole!

Around midday we earned a break at the top with orchids and glorious vistas everywhere. Jackson laid out a mat for us and fed us some delicious pamplemousse that was really appreciated.

Dramatic scenery, our path down hidden in the ferns

On our way down

Tree ferns everywhere

Starting our descent and walking around the bottom of Poumaka

More extraordinary rock formations…. called hoodoos in America

Yucca plants everywhere, that drop horrible dead leaves with razor sharp edges

A few steep tricky areas where we required ropes

We walked for over a km on a narrow ridge line, with sheer drops either side. The path covered in slippy pine leaves which did not faze Megan at all in her flip flops

Dead Yucca leaves on the path

We finally came into into a valley that opened up a bit after a very steep descent. We spotted cultivation, and the next minute we were under an archway with a pot hanging with a gong. This we had to ring to announce to the Chocolate farm that we were here as they have big dogs who don’t like surprises. A german ex helicopter pilot retired here about 20 years ago with his local wife, they used to grow coffee, then changed to Cocoa and now make chocolate to sell. What an idyllic situation, the only property in the valley bowl with an abundance of fruit and nut trees everywhere. Dogs, chickens and muscovy ducks everywhere. All very ramshackle, sadly the German, Manfred was not there as apparently he is a real character, now 76. We met his wife who was delightful and gave us tastes of the chocolate, which were unbelievably delicious. They use all their own harvested ingredients, macadamia, cashew, ginger, mint and nut combinations. We walked away with 5 bars, all hand wrapped in tin foil. It was a very successful stop as she also replenished our water bottles, they have area advantage being at the top of the stream, which they then filter for drinking. Also the girls and Rowan fell in love with a little frou-frou white dog who greeted them like long lost friends, much to the big dogs disgust.

The happy little dog

A cashew nut! The amazing soft fruit attached has an incredible smell like sweet bubblegum which drives the insects crazy

Ed at the chocolate bar with the maker of the chocolate

The menagerie

Their fruit trees looking very dry

We had a stop off at a waterfall for a well deserved swim, luckily this water does not go into the village

So refreshing after a long sweaty walk, even if I had to swim in all my clothes!

We finally got back to the village at 4:30pm, it was a much longer day out than we had expected, but we all thoroughly enjoyed it. Jackson was very good at pacing us and showed us endless plants and their medicinal uses, plus he entertained us with endless Marquesan folklore stories, plenty of beheadings and cannibalism! No doctor on the island here, although there is a tiny airstrip. They rely on boat supplies once a week. Just a junior school here, they have to go to boarding school in Nuku Hiva for senior school.

We dropped Jackson and Ed off at their house and he very sweetly invited us for Sunday lunch tomorrow with his family. We readily accepted. We found JeldiJeldi all safe and sound, we returned to PolePole and were greeted by yet another spectacular sunset….maybe the best so far! I was in bed by 8pm and slept right through to 8am, I was exhausted!