Commodore
January 24, 2023

Tuesday 24 January – Back to the Chagres River

We had to be back at Francesco’s at 9am for our history tour. It was really interesting walking around with him, he was so enthusiastic about his subject, emphasising that Portobello was so important it has two Unesco Heritage awards, one for its historical 17 Century trading importance with a lot of the old fortifications remaining, and the other for the local community, which is heavily influenced by escaped slaves that settled in the area after the decline of the bay’s trading importance. The area was abandoned and the heavily African influenced community remained untouched for around 200 years until about 60 years ago. There definitely is a different feel to the place, slightly edgy but very relaxed and colourful. Francesco took us around the two main fort areas giving us all the history of the privateers Sir Francis Drake and Captain Morgan. Actually Morgan sounds the far more interesting character. Francis Drake died of Dysentery here and was buried at sea in a lead coffin at the entrance to the bay. Francesco was so enthusiastic and really brought the history to life. Portobello was the most important trading post with goods from the Pacific in the 17th century until it was taken over by Cartagena in Colombia the 18th century. We really enjoyed our tour with him. We headed back via the bakery with a few tasty treats.

Entering the southern fort with Francesco’s smart dog leading the way

1758 the fort was built mainly out of coral

So many canons left in the Caribbean

The sea defence, the canons were kept cool by the tide being allowed in

Coral walls with Black vultures

View over to the entrance of the bay

More vultures

The ammunitions depot

Perfect view

This poor pig living in his BoraBora style house, on stilts!

Buying some welcome fresh fruit and vegetables!

I just love the South American buses

A colourful residence

Jacaranda trees reminding us of South Africa

Town bridges

The second fort – Santiago Battery

So many canons

Isobel leaving the bakery

We needed to leave around midday so that we could enter the Chagres river in good light and importantly witness the evening chorus of the birds returning home to roost. Baby Spice was hoisted once again and we had a very good sail with her. With no other sails up, just Baby Spice we were sometimes averaging 9 knots of speed in around 20 knots of wind and she went like a dream, very smooth and pleasant. Quite something navigating our way brought the endless huge container ships at the entrance to the Canal. We felt very insignificant weaving our way through these enormous monoliths!

We finally got to the Chagres and carefully zigzagged our way in to avoid the reefs. We passed one other Catamaran and that was it, so we anchored a couple of bends down the river, in splendid jungle isolation. Sunset drinks were great fun watching the noisy parrots and toucans heading home to roost, serenaded by the haunting howl of the Howler monkeys. We also had an Osprey come and eat his caught fish in a tree near us. Isobel was in her element amongst all the cacophony of the feathered nature.