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Commodore

Mayaguana our last Bahamian island

Well it was quite good to get our first overnight sailing done without any issues. Hours of glorious gentle sailing for Rowan. We finally got to Mayaguana late morning where we had decided to rest up before our last hop to Turks & Caicos. We decided to go into Abraham’s bay which meant navigating a narrow gap in the reef and then a long stretch through coral in shallow water. It took us an hour to get to the safe anchoring area. We moored near the only other boat, a cat called ‘Two can’ (I need say no more!). It was pretty choppy but we managed to cook up a big Sunday brunch which was very welcome.

We then realised we needed to leave early in the morning to get to T&C in daylight as it also has tricky navigation. It would take us an hour back to the gap in the reef and then a return on the outside of the reef to follow our route. So two hours to get back in line with where we were. There was a short cut out near our anchorage but listed as difficult ......a high tide and good light are a must. Rowan found a small anchorage about an hour further down the island with no reef to negotiate, therefore much easier to leave in the morning. We realised it was currently high tide so with full bellies we picked up the anchor and set off out the scary cut. Quite nerve wracking watching the coral heads coming up and going over them successfully. How they did it before depth gauges I have no idea. Also thank god for polarised sun glasses, so much easier to see the coral.


Brunch spot (no filters I promise)!


We pootled up the island and found our safe spot blissfully isolated, no sign of human habitation and no one else at anchor there. It was a much calmer spot, so we’re very glad we made the move. anchoring is meant to be tricky here, so Rowan put his snorkelling gear on to check the anchor and then had a long swim to the beach. I was very nervous about sharks as we were not far from a drop off into deep ocean, and was very relieved to have him back on board. He said the water was the clearest he had ever seen, and saw loads of fish even though the coral looked a bit bleached. He saw loads of sand dollars and brought one back for me. They are so evocative of our house exchange we did in Hope Town, Bahamas, 20 years ago.




Early supper as we’re pretty tired, accompanied by a gorgeous sunset and splendid isolation. News of the Corona Virus mayhem being the only blot on our magnificently peaceful evening.  Poor Phoeb’s whole South African holiday cancelled as the country goes into lock down. Luke has to work from home in Johannesburg and no domestic travel, which is a bummer when you’re a visitor to a country. Han is out filming in the bush in Botswana and will be sad not to be able to have any guests and family from South Africa for a while. God knows what happens to us as some Caribbean countries are preventing boats from entering!




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